"David Burton's New Zealand Food & Cookery"

Posted: 23/03/2010 7:55:25 a.m.

The new edition of this book is a far more interesting and useful read than the original 1982 version, and displays the maturity and erudition that has made David Burton NZ’s leading food writer and commentator. The first 100 pages are devoted to a witty and concise history of the New Zealand food scene, from early Maori cookery through to the delights of the ‘fusion, retro and beyond’ cuisine we enjoy today. It’s followed up by an extensive recipe section of what Burton originally called “Kiwana Kwisine”.

The recipes are for the main part, exactly as originally printed, but the thing I love most in this section is the small sidebars and essays about the food, and Burton’s personal experiences and relationships with eating. There’s lots of fascinating reading there. Many of the recipes are almost historic now, but the real flavours and fancies that New Zealanders grew up with are all well documented. Lovely classics like toheroa soup, Anzac biscuits, colonial goose, and roast pork with kumara stuffing are included along with frivolities like pukeko soup, kina pie and kiwifruit fritters.

The original book had full colour plates of food prepared by the author (who at that time was perhaps intending to have a cookery and food styling career) and some lovely illustrations by Nancy Tichborne. The new edition has a few very scientific drawings lifted from a nature book, and something has been lost in translation. But I have not let that worry me too much, for this book is a real gem, and any cook who is interested in our food history and who has the imagination to occasionally serve up tasty historic gems that have become part of our culture, will find a top spot for it in their cook book shelves.

Published by David Bateman, 318 pp, hardback $59.99