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Catherine Bell takes a journey through Rick Stein's latest book
By Catherine Bell - www.catherinebellnz.blogspot.com
PUBLISHED BY RANDOM HOUSE $70.00
(click to view their website)
Rick Stein might be one of the greatest food celebrities of the 21st century but you’d never know it to meet him.
Each time I meet him I am struck by the lack of airs and graces and that ’look at me’ behaviour so often associated with celebs. Stein is just a really pleasant man who loves good, simple authentic food and is extremely modest with it.
He is so modest in fact that he doesn’t for a minute think his new book Rick Stein’s Spain could possible win against Jamie Oliver’s British Food book in the Galaxy Awards in which both books are finalists. Why? “Because Jamie is so much more famous and well respected that I am” he explains. Yeah right, I want to say. I for one am not sure that is quite true and I do hope that he is proved wrong.
For one who already has a love affair with Spain, this latest book, companion to the TV series of the same name due to start on Prime on Sunday 30th October, is never-the-less a visual treat and a delight from a recipe perspective. It’s approachable, just like the food Rick loves best of all and there are new and different dishes that I have not seen before.
Are they totally authentic though?
The answer says Rick is in the book’s title – Rick Stein’s Spain. These are his interpretations of the traditional dishes he has been discovering since his first visit to Spain as an eight year old although in those days his parents referred to Spanish food as filthy.
“For instance” he tells me “in one town alone there might be several versions of the same dish – so which one is correct? It’s the one a family has been making for generations, or the one I like best and then interpret in a way people will enjoy and want to cook”.
It’s a book that celebrates Spain’s past but also it’s future as one of the great food cultures of the word.
“Food here is real”, Stein says of Spanish food, “its basic local food without pretence”.
And what of the ‘new’ Spanish cuisine, the molecular gastronomy?
“It doesn’t really push my buttons but at the same time I recognize that it has helped put Spanish food back on the map. And there are some (restaurants) that manage to combine both rather well”.
As we have come to expect with Rick Stein’s books the imagery on the pages is superb – designed to set the scene and champion the people who have shared their recipes and stories with him. Asked how he finds these treasures he is quick to acknowledge the help of many – in particular the Spanish cookery author Maria Jose Sevilla who works for the Spanish Trade Commission in London and ex-pats such as authors Chris Stewart of Driving over Lemons fame and John Barlow who wrote Everything but the Squeal.
We are so lucky here these days that all but a few ingredients are readily available. There is even a list of NZ stockists of Spanish foods in the back of the book. So get ready to cook and eat some great Spanish dishes this summer. Rick’s book and the TV series has all the inspiration you need.
SALT COD AND POTATO PUREE
AJOARRIERO
Ingredients
300g piece of Bacalao, (salt cod; see page 313), you can substitute for blue cod
500g peeled floury potatoes
3 fat garlic cloves
125ml olive oil
1 hard-boiled egg, roughly chopped, to garnish
Salt
Method
In his excellent book MoVida, Frank Camorra says he doesn’t really think of salt cod as being fish, that it’s been transformed by so much salting and drying into something almost earthy. I think he’s got a point. Certainly it’s been a part of the diet of inland regions of Spain for so long that it’s local. This dish is very like the French brandade, a lovely comforting combination of bacalao, potatoes, garlic and olive oil. The name ajoarriero means ‘muleteer’s garlic’, and it’s because mule drivers could knock this up at the end of a hard day’s travel from the ingredients they would be carrying on their animals. This is delicious thickly spread on freshly toasted bread, or stuffed into piquillo peppers as on page 80. If you have floury potatoes you can use a food processor to make this, provided you add the potatoes at the end and use the pulse button a few times so that it does not go gluey. Otherwise pound everything together using a large mortar and pestle.
Soak the bacalao in 3–4 litres of water in the fridge for 24–48 hours, depending on its thickness. Change the water when it tastes salty, normally at least twice.
Boil the potatoes in just enough unsalted cold water to cover for 10 minutes, then add the salt cod to the pan and simmer gently for another 10 minutes until the potatoes are tender. Drain, saving a little of the cooking liquor.
Crush the garlic on a board with the blade of a large knife, adding a pinch of salt to help mash it. Flake the salt cod, discarding the skin and any bones, and put it and the garlic into a food processor. Add half the olive oil and blend for a few seconds, then add the potato and blend with the rest of the olive oil and about 6 tablespoons of the cooking liquor if you like the purée quite wet. Season with salt (how much will depend on how well soaked the cod is), spoon into a shallow terracotta dish or bowl and scatter over the hard-boiled egg.
Photography: James Murphy
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