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Ah Italy!


NOSH presents LaBella Italia Wednesday the 29th of September 2010

Ah Italy! The birthplace of the Renaissance. A country rich in history and oozing tradition from every region, every street corner. Italy is the modern women's dream destination for dining, flirting, and high fashion. They say that Paris is the city of love but there's something about Italy that makes me purr. So I was excited when I heard NOSH was bringing LaBella Italia to Auckland, and transforming the Melting Pot into an Italian kitchen for an authentic dining experience. For one night only diners would be treated to a little dinner in Italy, in the heart of Mount Eden, and I was on the guest list!

The evening was to be intimate, and would be strictly limited to 30 people. The $100.00 ticket included a four course dinner with matching wines supplied by the boutique distributors Epicurean Wines. Guests were greeted on arrival with a glass of Luna Argenta Prosecca which was perfectly chilled, and gentle to the mouth. Some dining companions were loyal followers of the Wellington based restaurant, and I was assured Antonio Cacace would be a gracious and generous host. They went on to say LaBella's head chef, Gabriele Cagnetta, would charm us to tears. I wouldn't be disappointed.

Antonio took the floor and spoon fed the audience stories integral to the conception and process of Italian cuisine, including the specialties each region produces that are essential in every day cooking; products which are available in this country, how much one should expect to pay for these goods, and where to buy them. As the founder of LaBella he was first to import Parma Ham into the Southern Hemisphere, and he returns home regularly for a culture fix. As Antonio spoke Gabriele made a start on the preparation of the lamb rump; smothering the meat in salt and searing it to perfection. He then moved on to the polenta which would be served as an entrée, falvoured with porcini, dressed in baby balls of buffalo mozzarella and gently fried pancetta, which were lovingly drizzled in sage butter. As he cooked he spoke of hunting for mushrooms and sitting at the family table to enjoy polenta with his mother. Every movement Gabriele made in the kitchen was effortless and clearly captured by the monitors which sit discreetly above the oven- we were captivated.

As the first billow of steam escaped the risotto pot the Soft Polenta dish was served. The mozzarella was in perfect form, lightly warmed, soft to the bite. The pancetta was divine, outstanding. I enjoyed the subtlety of the polenta and its delicate mushroom notes. I only wish there was more of the butter to mop of every mouthful. Occasionally between courses Dane Jardin, from Epicurean Wines, would take the microphone and enlighten guests on the finer points of selecting a good Italian wine. Who knew the average shelf life of a bottle of wine in New Zealand is 40 minutes? Or that the Italian wine collection at NOSH contains reduced residual sugars, which makes it very good for us indeed!

My mind was whirling with plans to stock my cupboards with top notch wines, vinegars, porcini, oregano and oils. Oh I must remember to pick up a box of champagne flutes on my way out (my fellow diners agreed they were quite elegant) and the kitchen pots Gabriele used to prepare the meals are just gorgeous, I want one, I really need two! Before I knew it the Pumpkin Thyme & Prosciutto Risotto was served. This dish was a little bland for my taste. But perhaps I am spoilt. As the the flavours matched perfectly with a glass of Codici Montepulciano.

Italian food is all about gathering, sharing, tasting and enjoying. And by now the conversation at our table was flowing. Guests were dreaming of travelling to Italy with Antonio, to dine at his mothers table and take in the abundance of Autumn. As Gabriele was putting the finishing touches on the vegetables to accompany the lamb, I was promising myself I would never make a ball of mozzarella cry. I would use only extra virgin olive oil in the kitchen. And I would favour good, fresh ingredients over technique and all that boring stuff. As the mains were served a chorus of 'aaahs' swept over the table. And then silence. The sound of indulgence. The lamb was succulent. I prefer mine a little bloodier but in the process of sealing and searing the meat Gabriele had captured the lambs intense flavor, which I suspect he could achieve with the cheapest of cuts. The vegetables were cooked to perfection and added a hint of rustic charm to the dish.

Then the dessert. Marsala is one of my favourite cooking ingredients and I would never be without it. The Sabayon is an Italian custard whisked into shape and served with a biscuit or sponge finger. I expected this dish to be thicker and some guests compared it to egg-nog in style, this only made it easier to drink every last drop from the elegant martini glass it was served in. If it is true, as Gabriele says, that 'We eat is what we are' then I was going home creamy sweet and intoxicating.

The evening ended on a note of gratitude. NOSH had promised an event which would deliver on two fronts; as a kitchen and a workshop. They wanted to entertain and to educate, and in my opinion they delivered. I would have felt more at home in a less formal setting....dim the lights, play a little music, throw a checkered table cloth or two in for good measure and get people in the mood to mingle.....but the detail paid to the finishing touches made each guest feel special and the LaBella boys created plenty of passion. They touched our hearts and fired up our imaginations.

I left the Melting Pot feeling comforted, inspired. And I will never cheat again- with olive oil that is.


Bellissimo!!